Is an irrigation system right for me?

Sprinkler systems are a requirement for most lawns and gardens. While it is possible to have a lovely lawn and thriving garden that is watered by hand it’s not without a great deal of time and effort. A properly installed sprinkler system uses less water for healthier plants and saves time. It is recommended to install a sprinkler system prior to installing plants and other landscaping, however it is possible to work around an established system. Pop up sprayer heads are effective for watering broad areas while drip line irrigation is best for soaking individual plants throughout a flowerbed with minimal runoff. Remember that even the most skilled professionals can bust a pipe and need to do some onsite repairs.

What kind of soil should I use for this plant?

Depends on what plant you’re referring to! Generally potting soil will work just fine for container plants and amending poor soil, but to find out exactly what your soil needs we recommend a soil test. Compost or raised bed soil can be added to poor native soils to increase fertility and drainage. Cacti, succulents, and other drought tolerant plants usually prefer sandy, well draining soil mix, but in a pinch you can use potting soil, be sure to adjust your watering schedule accordingly. Plants like orchids and African violets should be given appropriate soil mixes for best results. Many plants cannot grow in standing water or heavy clay soils, so plant selection or soil amendments are imperative for successful planting.

When do I plant?

Our last killing frost date falls between March 15th-31st, but some vegetables and annuals enjoy the cooler temperatures. Check the hardiness on the plant label. If you plant something and a freeze/frost is in the forecast, cover tender plants with a frost cloth or sheet overnight.

How do I know when to water my plants/landscaping? Can’t I just water once or twice a week?

Plant roots require oxygen and the second most common cause of plant death that we see is drowning as a result of overwatering. The most common cause of plant death is a lack of water. A general rule of thumb for plants, indoor and outdoor, planted in-ground or not, is the rootball should remain moist but not saturated with water. Moisture meters can be used for more precise readings, but the simplest way to discern soil moisture is to dip your finger or a wooden chopstick into the soil approx. 2 inches down. If the soil is damp/wet leave it be, if it’s dry then saturate the plant.

What’s the deal with container gardening?

Container gardening is the most versatile way to enjoy plants: it is a way to help bring plants indoors, liven up non-landscaped areas, and increase crop yield in small areas. Containers also provide a way of easily moving sensitive plants indoors during undesirable weather. When selecting a vessel for your plants consider the following:

• Will the planter be indoors or outdoors?

• Is there appropriate drainage? Will it need a water tray?

• For larger pots that will need to be moved inside, how easily can they be moved or will you need help?

• Choose plants that will not outgrow their container

• Tall containers can get top heavy, consider adding heavy stones to the bottom of the pot

How do I plant this plant/tree/shrub?

It is best practice to dig a hole that is the same depth as the soil level of the nursery pot and about twice the volume. When you remove the plant from the container examine the rootball, if it is compacted together loosen up the roots a bit to stimulate growth and ensure the plant does not girdle. Just a tickle, don’t destroy the entire rootball. Once the plant is in the ground, backfill the hole with native soil, adding amendments in cases of heavy clay or sand, and packing the soil down as you fill. Do not mound the soil or mulch above the base of the plant.

When/how do I fertilize?

Fertilization for bedding plants is usually done every 4 weeks in the blooming season. For trees and bushes it is quarterly until about 3-5 years old, and then only applied twice a year. The exception to this would be fruit trees, which need a more intensive fertilizer regimen. We recommend slow release granular fertilizer over a liquid that you mix yourself, but whatever you decide to use… Always follow package directions.

Seasonal maintenance tips

• Deadheading flowers (pinching or cutting off spent blooms) is good routine practice during the blooming season, it encourages the plant to continue pushing out flowers. Be mindful that you do not cut off remaining buds!

• Check for pests and disease frequently, it is often easier to deal with them in the earlier stages and before the attractiveness of the plant suffers. Check for discolored and splotchy patterned leaves, cut edges, or residue left by insects. Oftentimes pests can be located on the undersides of leaves around the veins or on buds and other new growth. Dispose of diseased or pest ridden plant material into the trash.

• Cut back dead growth late winter or throughout the season for best appearance. Some beneficial insects nest in leaf litter so leaving some behind is an earth friendly practice.

• During summer do your best to water in the morning or early evening to avoid scorching plants and water loss

What are the benefits of mulch? How often should I replace it?

Mulch has asthetic and practical value. You can color coordinate mulch with your home and the landscape has a more polished look with a good 2”-3” layer of mulch. Mulch may be replaced annually or as needed to maintain a consistent layer around plants. Mulch maintains soil moisture and helps to regulate temperature. Mulch also will decompose over time and add nutrients and organic matter into soil, improving its quality. Inert mulches, that is mulches that do not degrade over time like shredded rubber, are best avoided as they retain heat from hot summer suns and do not add value to soil or plant health.

Why isn’t my plant growing?

• If the plant was purchased recently it needs more time to get established and start pushing out new growth. With seasonal annuals as the exception, landscape plants start to look their best after a year or two in the ground, container plants take 3-4 weeks to set their roots.

• Environmental stresssors can inhibit plant growth, extreme heat or cold as well as excess rain, all can affect your plants.

• Pest and disease will prevent a plant from growing.

• If a potted plant is rootbound it will also cease to grow, go up a container size and loosen the rootball to stimulate growth. Give fresh soil and fertilizer.

How can I tell if my plant is dead vs dormant?

For perennials that die down to the ground this can be tricky, if the rootball is loose in the ground it may be deceased. Otherwise it's a waiting game until spring/summer when the plant should be emerging from dormancy. For woody stemmed perennials and shrubs, do the spring test and the scrape test: gently bend branches between your fingers, live stem tissue should spring back and not snap; for the scrape test gently scrape the top layer of bark from the stem, it should be bright green.

How do I overwinter my plants indoors/outdoors?

Find a bright window or supplement a grow lamp if you must put plants into the garage. Due to decreased light intensity your plants will look shabby throughout the winter, but fear not for they will bounce back come springtime! Water when rootball is dry.

I keep finding white moldy stuff in my mulch and soil, what is it?

Crumbly or cottony white fungus is actually very beneficial to your plants and soil. It is the result of decaying organic matter in the soil, the fungus feeds on it and gives nutrients to the plants.

Is it okay that I keep finding mushrooms growing in my plants?

Yes! Mushrooms and other fungus are indicators of high levels of organic matter in your soil, which means more for your plant to feed on! Mushrooms can also sometimes indicate an excess of humidity and water, so as long as your plants appear healthy, you can leave the fungus be.

How do I deal with bugs?

There are over 100,000 species of insects in North America and only a small percentage of them are responsible for plant damage, insects are interconnected with plants for better or for worse. Cultural and environmental factors go a long way in preventing pests, healthy plants are less susceptible to insect damage. There are many beneficial insects that serve as natural controls to pests, so killing all insects present in the garden can often lead to pest infestation due to the lack of predators. Pesticides, organic or not, should be a last resort for dealing with pests and always read the label on whatever product you purchase. Always purchase a product that specifically lists the insect you are treating for. For help with insect identification please see the resources at the bottom of this page or bring quality pictures to Roots Garden Center for one of our staff to examine. Do not under any circumstances bring insect or disease infested material to the nursery outside of a sealed container. Roots Garden Center will not dispose of insect/diseased plant samples.

Can I come volunteer at Roots?

For now our answer is no, we do not have the infrastructure to support hosting volunteers. We appreciate the community’s willingness to work in exchange for knowledge and being around plants, but that’s not something we can accomodate.

Can I come teach a class at Roots?

We value the spread of knowledge. If you have a skill or trade that you can teach and are interested in hosting a class at Roots, please direct an email to: rootsgardencenter@outlook.com, we would love to hear from you!